organize

What Closet Orphans Can Teach Us

by Sally on May 17, 2013 · 23 comments

leopardtunic_outfit with text

I got a lovely e-mail from reader Corinne, who said:

Your book also made me realize that maybe the key to clarifying and strengthening my personal style was in my “orphans.” Practically everything else I’ve read says to get rid of them because they’re outliers. However, reading your book it occurred to me that perhaps it’s the rest of the closet is what should go quietly into the background.

Which, of course, made me unspeakably happy. And made me realize that closet orphans are basically teaching moments waiting to happen. I mean, we loved them, we bought them, we longed to wear them … and yet we didn’t wear them. If we don’t examine what prompted those purchases and what prevented those wearings, are we not doomed to make those same mistakes again?

Take the leopard print tunic shown above. I LOVE leopard print, and have the mindset that anything featuring this print is automatically classic. But this tunic is made from an extremely drapey and clingy material. It has an asymmetric neckline, which is very cool but a little limiting. It has wide sleeves and a boxy shape, which means it doesn’t layer well. And when I put it on with anything besides skinny jeans I feel a little bit too much like Peg Bundy. (Who is fabulous, but not one of my personal style icons.) Thus, this tunic has been worn once in the past year. As shown above. I’m not ready to give up on it just yet because I haven’t truly tried to style it in a variety of ways, but it has taught me the following lessons:

  • All things leopard print are not created equal
  • Wide sleeves SUCK when you’re a layering fan. Which I am.
  • Detailed necklines are also very limiting in the layering department.
  • Fibers that don’t wrinkle are convenient, but some of them cling. To everything.

I can honestly say that I’ve kept these things in mind as I’ve shopped in recent months.

I understand why style experts recommend jettisoning items that haven’t been worn in ages. They’re thinking, “If you haven’t worn it in two years, you probably aren’t gonna, so donate and move on.” And that’s certainly one way to operate. Stick to what you love and stick to what you know works well for you. But if you don’t pause to examine what motivated those dud purchases and ask yourself WHY those items are going unworn, you miss the chance to learn from your errors. Additionally, some items are more challenging to style but that doesn’t make them useless. Putting in the effort to build two or three outfits around your closet orphans can open up new worlds of creative dressing.

When you purge your closet, do you stop to ponder why your closet orphans have gone unworn? Have you saved any from donation that have gone into steady rotation?

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This Week I Love …

by Sally on May 14, 2013 · 17 comments

This Week I love 14.05.13_text

… this over-the-closet-door … gizmo. Or perhaps this is more of a thingamajig?

Regardless, Husband Mike brought mine home from the dollar store several months ago and I thew it over my closet door without really thinking about it. OK, truthfully, I did think about it. I thought, “What on earth am I gonna use THAT for.” And now, I consider it to be the best present HM has ever purchased for me. At the dollar store. (Important qualifier, there.)

Because, as it turns out, this gadget is the perfect partner for my new and improved outfit list. For a person who works from home, I have a ridiculous number of not-at-home meetings and commitments. And I’m a slow starter. Which means that when my colleague texts me at 8:30 a.m. asking if we can meet at 9:30 a.m. over in St. Paul, I must leap into the shower in a panic. I do this often, friends. You’d think I’d learn, but no. No, I guess I must get a charge out of being almost-late to everything, because the slow starting continues apace. And this means that there are many days on which I don’t have a lot of time to monkey around with fine-tuning my outfits. So I’ve taken to consulting my outfit list, trying on the listed outfits, making adjustments, adding jewelry and accessories, and hanging entire completed outfits on my over-the-closet-door wingding. So when I leap OUT of the shower, I can get dressed in a jiff.

I see this as another tool for staving off morning wardrobe panic. I know that setting aside time on the weekend to pre-screen your outfits may seem like a luxury, but consider the stress you’d save yourself! Consider how smoothly your mornings would go if you knew your outfit was selected, assembled, and guaranteed to work. Just having one or two complete outfits per week would alleviate some of that anxiety. You don’t actually need an over-the-closet-door whatsit to make this happen, of course, but it might help. You’ll need a place to put those pre-approved ensembles so you can reach for them and be ready to roll in record time.

Would this work for you?

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for alreadypretty.com. See Already Pretty’s disclosure statement for more details.

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When to Replace Your Clothes

by Sally on May 6, 2013 · 41 comments

06.05.13_text

Recently, I worked with a style consult client who had a question about replacing her worn-out clothes. I don’t know about you, but I find the process of replacing beloved wardrobe items to be difficult and stressful. Once you’ve gotten used to wearing a certain item, and then absolutely worn it out, hunting down a replacement that has the same fit, quality, and characteristics can feel like a wild goose chase. It’s possible, but it’s not much fun.

So I actually talked to my client about other factors to consider, including …

Determining if an item is in need of replacement

My client showed me a pair of chinos that she’d worn almost constantly the previous summer, and asked about where to look for replacements. But the chinos were in excellent shape! I talked her out of replacing them by giving her a list of potential reasons to replace a garment:

  • Faded color, especially spotty fading which is more noticeable
  • Chronic seam problems (A single unraveling seam can be repaired easily, but if a garment is continually coming apart at the seams, that can indicate larger problems including poor construction or cheap materials.)
  • Rips, tears, or holes that cannot be easily mended
  • Stains
  • Fabric worn thin
  • Deep or noticeable scuffs or snags

This list encompasses a handful of reasons you might want to consider replacing an item, and it’s certainly up to you to make the call. But I think some of us fall into the trap of believing that pieces we wear over and over again are worn out when, in fact, we might just be tired of them! If you’re sick of a certain pair of shoes or a particular skirt, replacing it with something similar may or may not help. Examine the item to see if it’s in poor repair, and if it isn’t, think about why your instinct was to replace it.

Considering repairs

Many minor issues can be dealt with through DIY or professional repairs. For clothing, seam issues, replacement buttons and hardware, some rips and tears, and many other problems can be handled by a professional tailor or a skilled sewist. For bags and shoes, hardware, heels, zippers, and minor construction issues can often be solved by a shoe repairperson or leather specialist. If you love something but feel it might need replacing due to a flaw, consult an expert before beginning the hunt for a replacement.

Deciding if replacement is the best plan

As I mentioned above, sometimes we consider replacing items because they’ve been worn so often. That can mean they’re wardrobe staples and important to our personal styles. But it can also mean that we’re sick to death of them, and buying another similar item will be a waste of money. If you’ve worn a certain jacket a couple of times per week for months on end each summer, and this summer you feel like it needs replacing, consider if a different style or fiber might excite you more. Maybe you don’t want a close facsimile as much as you want a new, more interesting version that is equally versatile and fun to wear.

If you consider all of these influencing factors and conclude that you DO want and need to replace something, here are a few things to bear in mind:

Your search will be less frustrating if you spend time determining what you love about the item that’s being retired. Don’t just decide that you need a new pair of brown flats that are just like the old ones. Think about why you love those old ones. Is it the color? Texture? Comfort or fit? Charging yourself with finding a replacement that’s virtually identical to the item being replaced is a recipe for disaster. It will suddenly become the one item you absolutely cannot find. Anywhere.

Give yourself a long timeframe and explore as many options as possible. Again, if you decide that you must replace your pink v-neck sweater this weekend at the mall, you will find nothing but blue crew necked sweaters everywhere you turn. Look at thrift stores, online, in person, and over a relatively long period of time.

And if you find yourself becoming frustrated, ask for help. Consult with a personal shopper or sales associate at your favorite stores. Put the word out to friends over social media or e-mail. The more searchers you have on the lookout, the quicker you’ll find what you need.

That’s my take! How do you determine when it’s time to replace wardrobe items? Do you try to repair them first? Ever decide to replace something and suddenly discover it is in short supply? How do you tackle the search process?

Image courtesy Benny Lin.

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Adventures in Tailoring

by Sally on April 1, 2013 · 30 comments

Several folks have asked to see some before and after tailoring images, and I’m finally ready to deliver! It can be hard to imagine how important and effective tailoring can be if you’ve never gone through the process yourself. Or, worse, if you’ve had items tailored, but badly! After years of searching, I’ve finally found a Twin Cities-based tailor shop that I trust with everything from simple hems to total garment reconstruction. Tom’s Tailor on Grand Avenue in St. Paul has earned a stellar reputation because everyone working there is skilled and knowledgable, and can tackle the most complex of tailoring jobs with ease. Here are the items I brought to Tom’s most recently.

orangedress_before1

This is a 100% silk, fully lined shirt dress that I bought from a consignment store in Chicago. (Not quite this shiny in real life.) It fits beautifully at the waist and is a good length for me, but was bagging in the bust area.

orangedress_before2

As it turns out, the problem was mainly in the BACK of the dress, which the folks at Tom’s saw right away.

orangedress_before3a

They took it in a bit in the bodice and bust, too, but fixing that back flap-age was the main alteration. Since this job involved altering both the dress and the lining – essentially two garments within one – it was a bit on the expensive side at $50. Let’s see the garment after tailoring:

orangedress_after1

As you can see, it looks much cleaner in the bust and bodice area, showing my actual figure. The silhouette of the dress works with my body much better now. Check out the back:

orangedress_after2

A bit of creasing is natural, but it’s far less loose and bunchy than before. Here’s the side-by-side view:

orangedress_beforeafter

Next up is an unlined knit blazer, purchased from the same consignment shop.

grayblazer_before

I’ll admit – with no small amount of shame – that I tend to be somewhat lazy when it comes to blazer fit. I have decent luck finding off-the-rack blazers that work, but I’ll occasionally grab one that is a bit too loose or tight and just pretend it’s fine. In this case, I nabbed this blazer and a matching skirt for $21 total, and since the blazer fit in the shoulders but had some extra room at the bust and super long sleeves, I opted to have it altered. Cost for this alteration was $25. (If the blazer had been lined, it would have cost more. Potentially twice as much.) Let’s see the garment after tailoring:

grayblazer_after

Definitely more subtle. I’ve discovered that this blazer looks best buttoned, but since the before shot is unbuttoned it seemed unfair to button here! The sleeves are a much better length, and the body fits closer to my own curves. Here’s the side-by-side view:

grayblazer_beforeafters

Finally, here’s a pair of pants I bought a year or so ago and have worn only two or three times.

floralpants_before

I love that print so very much, but never loved the shape of the pants. They fit fine, but the straight leg was difficult to style and felt a bit off to me. So I asked Tom’s to skinny the legs for me, figuring a slimmer profile might make the pants feel more versatile and modern. (I actually had them skinny up three total pairs in this run.) Cost for this alteration was $24. Let’s see the garment after tailoring:

floralpants_after

Again, more of a subtle change but I prefer this skinnied-up silhouette to the straight leg look. It’s not skinny enough to tuck into boots, but looks and feels more modern to my eye. Here’s the side-by-side view:

floralpants_beforeafter

Although most alterations are simple hem jobs, skilled tailors can tackle much more complex projects. I had the folks at Tom’s take in a skirt that was constructed with a circular hem. And lined to boot. It looks as good as new, but set me back $65. Worth every penny, in my opinion, as the skirt was worthless to me before the alteration.

A few tips to keep in mind if you’re considering having a garment tailored

  • If you’re having pants hemmed, bring shoes in the approximate height you’ll wear most. (More on that subject here.)
  • As you may have guessed from this post, lined garments will be more expensive to tailor. Still worth it, though, if they’ll go unworn!
  • If you need an item let out (made larger), check the seams. Many store-bought garments offer very little seam allowance and can be difficult to let out. Check with your tailor to be sure, but if you need something let out quite a bit and it’s got bitty seam allowances you might be sunk.
  • Shortening or altering sleeves are often-overlooked and relatively simple alterations. (In most cases. Not all.) I just worked with a style consult client who has long arms. She had a gorgeous pure silk Kate Spade blouse that hit her about an inch above the wrist: Just too short to look full-length, and quite a bit too long to look 3/4. She took it to her tailor who removed the original cuff and scooted it up the sleeve to the perfect 3/4 spot. Confining cap or short sleeves can be made into flutters. Talk to your tailor about making sleeves work.
  • Ask around for tailor recommendations. It can be challenging to find a reliable, skilled tailor, but you’d be amazed how many people have input and advice. Yelp is somewhat helpful, but word of mouth is FAR more trustworthy.

Tailors can work wonders on ill-fitting garments, but they are not magicians. Some alterations cannot be done, and some won’t make garments look perfect on you. But in my experience, shelling out for alterations is generally worthwhile. If you love something but it doesn’t fit quite right, a round of tailoring can bring it right back into rotation. And it’s generally cheaper than buying new!

RELATED POST:
Why You Should Befriend Your Tailor

ANOTHER FABULOUS TAILORING RESOURCE:
Alterations Needed’s section on alterations, style, and fit tips. Includes lots of tailoring before and after shots.

What have your best and worst tailoring experiences been? What other advice would you give to folks who are considering getting an item tailored, but have never tried it before?

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Keep Calm And Carry On

by Une Femme on March 20, 2013 · 23 comments

keep calm and carry onTravel capsule wardrobe – Paris and Provence, April 2012

For some people, packing for travel is a dreaded task, often postponed until a few minutes before it’s time to leave for the airport. Not for me. I love planning outfits around anticipated activities, and often start thinking about what to pack weeks before a planned trip.

But that doesn’t mean I’ve always chosen or packed wisely. On our first trip to Paris six years ago, we overpacked BIG time. We lugged a huge rolling duffel and two smaller (though not small) bags for two people for an  eight-day trip. And most of what I did bring was never worn, or didn’t suit our activities or environment. Those cute ballet flats? Murder on my feet after just an hour of walking about on gravel paths and cobblestones. The chic black swing jacket purchased in anticipation of the trip was too bulky to wear under my outerwear, and not warm enough to wear on its own. I brought far too many dressy clothes and heavy, structured pieces that were a wrinkled mess once unpacked.

After that I was determined to learn to pack lighter and smarter and the last two trips we’ve taken, I’ve been able to pack for two weeks each time in a single carry-on rolling suitcase without ever feeling that I “didn’t have anything to wear.” There are many reasons to travel carry-on only, not the least of which is the specter of arriving at your destination when your luggage does not. Skipping the long wait at the baggage carousel is another, as is being able to navigate public transportation more easily. And with most airlines now charging for checked bags, the financial incentive is strong.

If you’re going skiing, scuba diving or on any vacation that requires special equipment, or if you will be traveling for an extended period of time in a variety of climates, relying on a single carry on bag may not be feasible. But for the kind of vacations we normally take that involve sightseeing, lots of walking, dining, museums, shopping and such, it’s totally do-able with a little planning.

And when you’re planning, start with shoes. If your vacation will involve walking at all, and most do, you will need shoes that are supportive and comfortable. But that doesn’t mean they must be clunky or frumpy. Brands like Ecco, Naot, Dansko, Tsubo and Sofft all offer great walking shoes with enough style to go from day to dinner. Which leads me to..

Leave the really high heels and dressy shoes at home. Unless you will be attending a wedding or a formal state dinner at the embassy, they will languish in your closet or bag. Even in the chicest European capitals, “smart casual” will take you just about anywhere.

Except for summer sandals, bring shoes that will keep your feet dry.  Having to spend hours traipsing about with soggy feet will ruin the best of days. If you must bring your canvas sneakers, bring a second pair of shoes to wear on days they’re drying out from having stepped in a puddle or being caught in a sudden downpour.

Two or three pair of shoes – MAX. Including the one you wear on the plane. If you choose wisely, that’s all you’ll need, really. Shoes are the bulkiest of items to pack, and will eat up valuable suitcase space. And don’t let your shoes “fly for free,” stuff them with socks, jewelry or small items to save space.

Now that you’ve chosen your shoes, you can think about clothes. While some people like Audi at Fashion for Nerds have a flair for composing travel wardrobes with a lot of pattern and color, for most of us, sticking to one or two darker neutrals will help select a capsule of multi-purpose separates that will mix and match, and travel well. I usually limit myself to a dozen clothing items total, which has proven to be plenty. Use the Polyvore On The Floor method (top pic) to plan and lay out your dozen-item capsule, but also be sure to try on all potential combinations to insure that everything works with everything else.

Lightweight knits are your friends. They’re light to pack and will shed wrinkles easily once you reach your destination. Pile on layers or shed as fluctuating temperatures require. And a bit of stretch means you’ll be comfortable either strolling through a museum or in transit on a crowded bus or train for hours at a time. And many lightweight knit fabrics can be washed in a hotel sink, hung to dry overnight and ready to wear in the morning.

1-Starred Photos8

First and last day of our trip. Wore a version of the same thing most days in between.

Lose the hangup about wearing the same clothes multiple days in a row. Usually you won’t be with the same people day to day, and even if you are (as with a tour group) they won’t care. Use scarves and accessories to change up the look.

To jean or not to jean? Many committed one-bag travelers avoid them like the plague for weight, bulk and extended drying time. But if you live in demim at home and will be willing to wear them multiple times between washing, bring a pair.  (Some wear their denim jeans on the flight or in transit to save baggage weight and space; whether this works for you depends on your comfort level.)

Stay “in character.” Don’t pack styles or colors of clothing that you wouldn’t be comfortable wearing at home. Truly, when you travel you want your mind to be free to enjoy the wonders around you, not distracted by feeling uncomfortable and foreign in your own clothes. And don’t get hung up about “not looking like a tourist.” Regardless of how you’re dressed, as soon as you pull out your camera and start snapping photos, your cover will be blown. Instead, focus on looking like a stylish tourist, and behaving like a courteous, respectful one. (Learning a few basic greetings in the language and customs of the places you’ll be visiting goes a long way.)

Next month, How To Pack It, and What To Pack It In.

_ _ _

Already Pretty contributor Une Femme is fifty-six, married to the same wonderful monsieur since 1995, the mother of a special-needs teenager and two hooligan dogs, a full-time administrative professional, a coffee-holic, Paris-obsessed, native Californian, and a petite and curvy femme d’un certain age. She believes that personal style is an essential form of self-expression, and started her blog, Une femme d’un certain âge, in 2007 hoping to start a conversation about style for women over 50.

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Already Prettypoll: Clothing Smell Remedies

by Sally on January 4, 2013 · 43 comments

I’ve had a couple of folks e-mail me with requests for solutions to smelly clothes, used/vintage and otherwise. And I’ve gotta tell ya: Very few have worked for me. My understanding is that each person creates a specialized cocktail of hormones, sweat, and deodorant/antiperspirant that interacts with various fibers in different ways, so a stink-remedy that works for one person might fail another. I’ve had luck using cheap vodka and sunshine on mild BO and mothball smells, and white vinegar/baking soda takes most of the stank out of my workout tops, but just about everything else has proven weak or ineffective on my own laundry. So I’m hoping you all can suggest a few!

What do you use to keep your clothes from smelling, or to rid smelly clothes of their odors? Share recipes or links if you’ve got ‘em!

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This Week I Love …

by Sally on December 18, 2012 · 30 comments

SteamFast SF-435W Compact Fabric Steamer - $24.98

… my travel steamer.

During middle school and high school, I worked retail at a clothing boutique a block from my childhood home. And there I met the jumbo industrial steamer, which made rumpled, creased clothing look flowy and fresh. I know that Deja has invested in a Jiffy steamer and loves it, but I’m happy with my mini travel model for now. It’s far from perfect, with a fairly small chamber and a tendency to burp water onto my clothes if tipped to the wrong angle, but it’s a thousand times more effective at actually removing creases and wrinkles than any other travel steamer I’ve ever owned. Powerful and efficient, if a bit temperamental.

Like many people, I loathe ironing. But I’ll admit a steamer is a poor substitute for an iron when it comes to certain woven fabrics. My button-front shirts never look PRESSED after a steam, but they certainly look less rumpled. For press appearances, on-camera work, and interviews I iron. For daily doings, I steam.

Do you use a steamer of any kind? Industrial or travel? Or do you stick to ironing or sending out your laundry? Anyone else have a brand or model of steamer to recommend?

**Disclosure: Actions you take from the hyperlinks within this blog post may yield commissions for alreadypretty.com. See Already Pretty’s disclosure statement for more details.

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Fluffing Your Closet

by Sally on December 14, 2012 · 12 comments

Sometimes I realize things and I want to share them. And I think, “This is really simple and it’s highly possible that 99% of humans already know it.” But then I think, “If I just realized it, there could be others out there who haven’t yet!” And THEN I think, “I need to get out more.”

So here’s today’s possibly-overly-obvious closet organization tip of the day:

When you hang clothing and replace it in your closet, it is likely to get a little bunched-up. At a certain point, you will have washed, hung, and replaced just about everything in there, and all that bunching will add up. If you haven’t bought anything new but your closet is suddenly packed to the gills, take everything out and put it back in a few pieces at a time. Fluff out sleeves and smooth garment bodies flat. The simple act of undoing the natural re-hanging-related bunching will free up LOADS of closet space. You’ll see.

Anyone making a regular practice of this already? (I only do it when things feel suddenly and weirdly overcrowded, but it helps a ton!)

Image courtesy Rubbermaid Products.

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