Over the years, I’ve gotten many requests that relate to jeans. You gorgeous gals have asked for brand recommendations, fit guidelines, advice on whether to buy premium, and tips on how to track down great jeans for cheap. And I have VIGOROUSLY IGNORED these requests because I am just not a fan of jeans. I mean for me, not for you. Many, many women look sassy and sensual, or cool and comfy, or happy and natural in their denim. I own a good six pairs of jeans, and wear them about as often as I wear my formal dresses.
So, this’ll be a bit of a stretch for me. I’m going to tackle the aspects of jean-wearing and jean-seeking with which I feel most comfortable and knowledgeable. And if, in the end, you are dissatisfied and disappointed, I will hunt down a denim diva amongst my fellow blogesses and demand a comprehensive guest post.
But for now …
MY, HOW JEANS HAVE CHANGED!
I became aware of figure flattery around the time that flares surged in popularity. Which was perfect timing, because I looked great in flares.
William Rast Savoy Flares, NordstromAnd since it had taken me, essentially, my entire life to find a style of jean that balanced my hips and emphasized my curves in a flattering way, I stuck to flares. For ages. And flares are still available – the William Rast pair shown above can be yours for the bargain price of $238. And they’re still flattering on me. I think.
But somehow my eye has adjusted to slimmer-cut denim. Don’t get me wrong: I would still look like a Class A Idiot if I tried to pull these off:
Stretch Toothpick Jean, J.CrewBut their very existence, and their dominant presence in the market for many years, has forced me to see them as the new standard. I feel sloppy in my flares. Outdated. My slim-cut straightlegs feel chic and polished and current in a way that my reliable, hip-balancing, dark wash flares never do.
Classic Medium Wash Straight Jean, Banana RepublicI never thought this day would come. Never imagined I’d feel BETTER in straightlegs than I do in flares. But after years of wailing that skinnies look good on skinny people and no one else, I believe that the market has adjusted to encompass more body types. And I’ve accepted that the standard has shifted to a slim silhouette.
This will make many of you unhappy.
And it is not to say that you must immediately abandon any non-slim denim and begin shoehorning yourself into skinnies no matter how much you hate them. Oh HELLS no. If you are a jeans gal, you are likely passionate about denim in a way that I shall never be. If you feel fab in your wideleg jeans, perfect in your bootcuts, love your look in flares, then go with it. I’m going to draw the line at poochy jeans that taper at the ankle, but just about any other style you can purchase that makes you look and feel marvy is totally fine. Just because the standard has shifted doesn’t mean you’ve gotta conform. Bootcuts have been proclaimed universally flattering by every style expert ever. Why fight that?
However, I wanted to point out the shift because if you are inclined to explore slim denim, you should be aware that there are options for non-waifs out there. Skinnies are now available with lots of stretch and straightlegs can work for women with curves. Before you dismiss these styles out-of-hand, slip on a pair. There’s no one in that dressing room but you, and it doesn’t hurt to try.
HOW JEANS SHOULD FIT
For starters, consult my post on pant length. I stand by these guidelines for denim as well as dress slacks. In a nutshell, your hem should be about a half-inch off the floor, regardless of your shoe choice. No dragging, frayed hems. No goofy-looking floods. Try your jeans on while wearing a shoe that is representative of your typical heel-height for best results.
If your abs are flat and firm, feel free to indulge in low-rise jeans. If you’ve got some cushioning around the middle, aim higher. Mid-rise jeans that hit about an inch below the bellybutton are great for those sporting a spare-tire (such as myself). High-rise jeans may look hideous with a blouse tucked into ‘em, but they can be quite comfy if they’ve got a decent amount of stretch and they can stabilize much tummy-jiggle, should that be a concern. No matter how you’re built, though, NO MUFFIN TOP. Your midsection should not spill out over the top of your pants. No way, no how, no excuses. No one but you will ever see the number on that damned tag. If they’re too tight, buy a size up.
Your jeans should hug your bum, not hang off of it. If you cannot discern the shape of your rear end at all, your jeans are too looose. If the creases just below your buttocks are deep and tight and create little triangles of buttflesh at the tip of either hip, your jeans are too tight.
Bootcut Jean in Premium Rinse, J.CrewJeans should lay flat across your hipbones. I detest whisker wash jeans because they emphasize a phenomenon indicative of overly tight jeans: Excessive pulling and creasing across the pelvic area is unflattering, unsightly, and just plain bad.
Finally, if the center seam digs into your tender ladyparts, try, try again.
BRANDS I LOVE
I don’t do premium denim. Why should I fork over bales of money for an item that gets sparingly used? So my brand and style recommendations will be on the budget end of the spectrum, which fulfills at LEAST two reader requests!
You don’t have to BE long and lean to wear these. That’s the way they’ll make you look. A fabulous bootcut that flatters many, many figures.
I’ve bought ‘em new and I’ve thrifted ‘em. These are my most reliable go-to slim jeans. They look mighty tight in this photo – and, in my opinion, the model’s pair IS too tight across the hips – but they are more of a straightleg than a skinny, I assure you.
A roomier straight than the J.Crew model, and with a much higher rise. I recently thrifted a pair of these and just ADORE them. I’d definitely buy them new, too.
I’ve got several pairs of this very jean languishing unworn … but I still believe them to be super comfy and super flattering, if you’re a flares kinda gal.
You may have noticed that there are no boyfriend jeans among my examples. Nothing destroyed or distressed. No light washes. Well, taste is what it is and I like dark, clean, classic denim. I think it’s flattering, ageless, and chic. So sue me.
NOW! How’d I do? Was this helpful? What jean-y questions are left unanswered? Would you like me to get an expert to weigh in on certain points? Some input on whether premium is worth the simoleons? Do tell.
Top image courtesy Gap.
{ 41 comments… read them below or add one }
thank you for the recommendation of straight legs! I never would have gone for them, but if they really area more of a straight-leg they might become my new go-to jeans!! I am currently e-baying my size as we speak
as a total jeans girl, i so appreciate your foray into denimland! gap long and leans are my standbys, especially because gap sells long sizes for tall girls like me. i have to say on the premium question: seven for all mankind dojos are maybe the most luxurious and lovely things i have ever put onto my body. . . i don't know if they're worth the $230 they would cost new, but they are definitely worth searching out for thriftier prices. and i'm still a die-hard, dark, flare fan, although i like tucking a skinny pair into my tall boots.
I pretty much live in jeans and this post was so helpful and something I could kind of relate to! I just recently bought my first pair of skinnies, as I was always a strictly flared pants girl. I'm extremely petite but I always got the impression that skinny jeans or even straight legs would make me look even tinier,
and flatten my bottom out. But I found one pair (sadly only one!) that fit ok. I'm going to have to research into your reccomendations!
The problem I seem to have though, is if the length fits, the waist is too small. And if the waist fits, then the bottom of my pants are like the train on a bridal veil! Nothing a little hemming can't fix though I suppose =D
I'm not really into denim either– I own exactly four pairs: a pair of deadstock 70s Levi's flares, Joe's Jeans skinny denim with a slight flare and two pairs of Uniqlo skinny jeans (which are the perfect waist length — not too high or short). Jeans for $25. Can you beat that?
Hooray for those J. Crew matchsticks! I JUST bought a pair of cords in that cut, and I loves them very much. I am absolutely kicking myself for not springing for the denim iteration while I was at the outlet. I also still love my Lucky Brand Maggies (Lucky seems to leave room for a booty better than most brands) and my Hudson's. I'd suggest that, if you want to buy premium denim, find the style you like in the store, then buy on Ebay. It will be much cheaper.
I think it's great encouraging everyone to try different types of jeans, I know I have 3 or 4 different cuts, and will always at least try on a new style (though I may not leave the dressing room). Sadly I am doomed to a little bit of muffin top at least for a little while, as my jeans are still 1-2 sizes too big through my hips and butt, and give me a muffin top. I wish it were as easy as just going up a size, it sounds like that's not an issue you've encountered, but if you know of any brands or styles that run the reverse on you, let me know!
Oh! Also, a while back, a friend at work asked me if flares are turning into the new "Mom jeans" in the sense that they make you look dated and a little out of touch. Is this true?? Is that why you now feel sloppy in flares? I don't mind looking sloppy, esp. if in a grunge mood, but I don't want my jeans to age me like that!
Laura: Hmmm, so are you an apple figure? Your midsection is your widest point, and you have a small butt and thighs?
ranksubjugation: Ya know, I still see celebs sporting flares on occasion, so I wouldn't dismiss them as being horribly out of style. For me, it's just that so many complete looks hinge on slim-fitting denim these days. Throwing in flares where straightlegs should be looks decidedly off.
I definitely need to go jean shopping, I need at least 5 new pair but it will have to wait till after the Holidays which are quickly approaching!
Thanks for that. We recently got a Gap store in Dublin. Think I might try them for those long and lean pair which look fab. Sadly J.Crew is still not available here and neither are the designer jeans like Lucky for instance. I have exactly 4 pairs of jeans but would love more. I would be more of a slacks girl if I didn't too dressed up in slacks for an ordinary weekend or lunch with the girls.
That's a question for a future post perhaps, how to do casual wear without jeans????
smaro: Already done! http://www.alreadypretty.com/2009/09/reader-request-casual-friday-with-style.html
Well done as usual, Sal. This post comes at a time when I'm in a quandary about which style to wear. I love skinnies, but they don't fit me anymore. Now I have to choose something else.
The best way to find the right fit for jeans is to go try on about a MILLION pairs. I don't know why people think there's any shortcut to that. Get your asses to stores, people, and try some stuff on! Sigh…
I love the look of the William Rast jeans.
Don't forget always buy tighter as denim stretches within 2 hours and never fully regains its shape unless you wash it hot!
Good job – especially as this isn't your fave wardrobe item! You know I love the denim, but I at least as happy with my $90.00 Gap 1969 pair (I got them for $50.00 on discount) as with my $250.00 J Brands (BTW, those look good on me but they are not the best fit, not the most comfy and I'm surprised I got taken in by them. Must have been the name…)
I really can't say enough about the 1969s. I'm wearing them right now and they manage to be like freakin' leggings in terms of comfort. And I'm wearing the skinnies! The denim has great memory without being too lax. There's even vanity sizing to make you feel slimmer than ever.
The stitching is attractive, the pockets are very well placed for maximium bum lift. I would say everyone should go to the Gap and give all the pairs a try. I found most of them to be very flattering.
@sal when it comes to pants I am an apple shape, but when it comes to dresses and shirts I'm an hourglass…so I guess the bottom of my hourglass just got moved to right above my hips, two scoopr of ice cream on a cone perhaps?. BTW I really love your blog, it's helping me explore and develop a sense of style as I figure out my post-college look.
I have to give advice to go with a supportive friend/boyfriend/husband when buying jeans because it can be a long adventure trying to find that perfect pair of jeans. My last trip lasted all day, there were tears, and I ended up with nothing. Although I think if I had gone with these recommendations in hand it might have gone better
Hi there-that was a fab and informative post, I really love all styles-flares, straight leg, bootcut, high and low rise-maybe thats why I own 13 pairs of jeans, LOL! I'm a jeans girl and this was a really useful post, thanks!!
I have a poochy tummy and I like Not Your Daughter's Jeans for this. There is something stretchy and binding about the front of them, I don't know how they do it. The styles aren't as dowdy as they used to be and in one or two styles they carry tall, hurray!
What is the difference between boot cut and flare?
And you're right, there is nothing more uncomfortable than a seam that digs into your sensitive parts. This will NOT stretch out with wearing – I can say this having learned the hard way.
Hmmm…I like those straight-legs. I always thought skinny jeans were meant for anorexic teenagers, but I recently bought a pair and love them.
Also, I'm baffled that people would fork over hundreds of dollars for ripped jeans.
I couldn´t believe those "mom jeans"- that they still sell them!! And that there is a market for them obviously…
rb: Flares taper in at the knee and have a pretty exaggerated bell at the cuff/hem. Bootcuts have the same basic shape, but the bell at the cuff/hem is waaaaay less pronounced.
I'm a jeans girl and have quite a few pairs in different lengths (for flat/heel accomodation) and styles. I wear jeans a good 5 days a week so it's important to me.
Sally, I just can't find a pair that fits me right and is budget-friendly. I'm a pear shape and find jeans are too tight in the thighs. I hate that. I also hate spandex and how it stretches the jeans out making them sag on my butt. BOO. Hiss. I'm going to re-read your post and reader comments to glean some insight into finding the right pair for me
BTW, William Rast jeans are discounted on RueLaLa today
http://www.ruelala.com/event/all/18647
Very sensible advice! I'm trying not to wear jeans so much and to wear skirts and dresses more (failed today–currently sporting skinnies tucked into boots lol). I still love a bootcut for wearing over snug-fitting boots or with sneakers because it looks more casual, but you're right, lately I feel a lot more chic in straight-leg and skinny jeans.
I agree, GAP makes some really wonderful jeans. I really like "curvy flare" cut.
Being a petite on the heavier side, i have a hard time finding jeans that fit..I like Levis 512 Perfectly slimming jeans. Lee natural fit are nice too.
awesome guide, sal! i love the new gap denim line – they really stepped it up. my personal faves are straight leg jeans. def. flatter my body the best.
Another fan of the new Gap 1969 jeans, esp the skinny's. Also like Express' Editor line and the newer one (don't remember the name but is cut slimmer in the thigh than Editor, with a flare leg).
I've found that a good tailor can fix jeans so they'll fit you perfectly. If they give you muffin top but fit nicely on hips & elsewhere, a tailor can add a strip of denim to the back waistband to add up to 1" breathing space; enough to get rid of the muffin.
Jeans that are too flared (and possibly look dated) can be tapered from the knees down so they'll be boot cut or even straight legs.
JCrew matchstick jeans fit me fine except for a little too much fabric around the thighs so my tailor tapered from the hips to knee and made them more flattering.
Jeans can be shortened so that the original hem & thread is preserved. I'm not sure of the exact term for it (blind stitch/blind hem?) but you can't tell they've been hemmed. Especially important when you have a wide hem or a faded/distressed original hem.
Bottom line, as hard as it is to find the perfect fit in the right wash at the right price, it's worth taking the jeans to a good tailor to see what can be done to customize the fit. I've not paid more than $20 for any of the alterations mentioned above, and you can't tell it's been done.
I will totally vouch for the Gap Long and Leans. They are the only jeans that have ever worked for me. I love them with a passion. I just bought a trouser pair and I love those too. Flares and bootcuts are so flattering on me.
As for straight or skinny jeans – I can't do it. It doesn't matter how many times I try them on, I still look ridiculous. I have very large thighs so they make my thighs look bigger and my ankles look tiny. Not a pretty look. I think there are some body types that they just don't work on.
-Amy
Ditto – take a friend and be prepared to try on jeans at multiple stores until you find the right cut for you. I'm glad to see some brands recognizing that there are different body types and providing options accordingly.
Bring a friend who will be honest about how they look. Comfortable doesn't always mean jean look good.
Clothes don't have to be perfect in the store — if you find jeans with an otherwise great fit through the rise and rear end, but they gap a bit at waistband or the side seams bag a bit, those can be taken in.
And hemming is such an easy thing that being "too long" shouldn't even be a concern. (I've kind of come to enjoy the need for hemming — I wear the jeans a couple times before I decide whether to hem for heels or flats.)
Pay attention to what pockets or others details do to the overall look.
I love wearing jeans whenever I can. But even more than the dread low rise, I've been dreading the return of skinny jeans. I'm hoping the stores keep the boot cuts as I need them to balance my apple shape. My legs are skinnier than my tum would imply. I found my first-ever pair of Levis at Torrid. They're a stretch "wide waist" and fit great. From 4th grade to 4 years from 40 (yikes) I never found a flattering pair of levis until these. As a tall apple shaped woman (waist is roughly same dimension as hips which don't flare but continue to taper), I also have good luck at the Gap and some Guess and Lucky brands, although I often try on guy's jeans and find that wider leg bottoms makes my shape more balanced (just like the experts say). To choose, I try on just about everything in 2-3 sizes each and go with whatever makes me feel awesome when I try them on.
I would like to see those Classic Straight jeans by Banana Republic modeled by a normal-sized woman. I think that woman's hipbones make the jeans look messy and baggy. It's hard to tell, but I'd bet they would look a lot more flattering on someone with some muscle tone and curve.
I don't do jeans except for work, and even then I get grumpy. I am 5'7" but normal jeans are usually 4 inches too long, petite jeans are an inch too short, the waist gaps open if they fit my butt, and most jeans I do like fall apart in less than a year. Thank goodness I like skirts better.
If your abs are flat and firm – or if you have a six inch rise, big hips and a (relatively) tiny waist – clutch your low-rise jeans to your bosom.
I'm terrified that low-rise jeans will go away. I remember the 80s, when the waist of my jeans used to dig into the bottom of my ribcage when I sat down! I never even knew that jeans could really fit me until low-rises showed up.
I think it's good to touch on length and fit, but I think jeans are just one of the those things you HAVE to go and try on. Good tips for the trying on process though!
this post was very helpful
penelope
When I was thinner I used to love Gap Long and Lean. Now I'm a bit lardier (UK 18, with lots of weight in the tummy) I love Dorothy Perkins jeans, and I've recently bought a pair of South Molly jeans from Very (formerly Littlewoods catalogue!) and they are awesome. both kinds seem to keep their shape well and are slim fitting enough to get the skinny shape without being tight enough to cause discomfort. And the rise in the waist is high enough to accomodate tummy without causing camel toe!
wow, you're good at picking jeans. Oprah picked Lee Jeans as one of her favorites today too!
http://www.oprah.com/slideshow/oprahshow/20091015-tows-cookie-johnson-jeans/3
I'm the exact opposite of you…I'm really only comfortable in my jeans. They're not easy to fit but I'm lucky in that i can alter them myself. Sometimes I even bring my jeans to work and change in the bathroom so I can be "myself" in the car on the way home! Love your post. Can't do skinny either. I tried many, but, alas, my thighs look even bigger with jeans stuck to my lower legs like paint!
Oh yes, the GAP Long and Lean. It’s my favourite jeans, and I regret that I only bought one pair in London last summer (no GAP here).
I’ve never been able to avoid a small muffin top–and I refuse to try Not Your Daughter’s Jeans because, uh, I AM the daughter–because I have slim hips and a relatively thick waist. That is, I never developed curves… but neither am I an anorexic teenager, so junior’s jeans fit too tightly through the thighs. I guess in relative proportions, I’m a skinny pear, but it’s hard to call myself a pear with 34″ hips.
My favorite jeans at the moment are the Express Zelda fit, ultra-low rise. They fit well through the thighs, the size 2S can sometimes be worn without hemming (depending on what machine cut that particular pair), and I let my tummy be with the jeans sitting almost entirely on my hips. Higher rises just give me more muffin top, since my 28.5″ waist fits a size 6 but I’m 0/2 everywhere else.