A few weeks ago, JunebugB forwarded this fascinating NYT article to me. It describes how Goodwill Industries is attempting to change the way consumers view their thrift emporia: Realizing that the economically-strapped American public is looking for ways to continue consuming while spending less, Goodwill is changing its store appearances and marketing strategies in an attempt to cast a broader net. They want a piece of that sought-after Recessionista pie.
From the article:
Many Goodwill stores have increased the size of their sales floors to display goods more generously ... rather than turning them out jumble-sale-style. Shoppers expecting a traditional thrift store might be surprised to enter one of Goodwill’s free-standing “boutiques” in cities including Milwaukee; Palm Beach, Fla.; and Portland, Ore., which offer daily deliveries of donated designer goods and department store labels in the manner of a fast-fashion chain like H & M.
Other special items are featured online in Goodwill auction and shopping sites, and some stores have even staged fashion shows.
Husband Mike and I just happened to be in Milwaukee on the weekend that one of these new gussied-up Goodwills was having its grand opening. Retique in the Third Ward was offering wine, truffles, and other hors d'oeuvres to its guests as they perused the store's offerings. I didn't end up purchasing anything, but came across Trina Turk, Susana Monaco, and Theory in my search as well as abundant J.Crew, Banana Republic, and Ann Taylor, all in impeccable condition. Prices were a little higher than thrift - in the $15 to $30 range instead of $5 to $10 - but still undeniably reasonable. The shop looked less like an overstuffed thrift store and more like a consignment shop, with brimming racks organized by color and tons of space to amble around. The lines for the two fitting rooms were long and moved slowly, but it was, after all, opening night.
Some of the thrill of thrifting is finding undervalued bargains - a Max Mara shirt for $3, a White & Warren sweater for $10. But now Goodwill is "seeking more brand-aware managers equipped to recognize (and, to some degree, exploit) the market value of luxury labels." And ya know, I think that's fair. I may be in the minority, here, but I always feel like a bit of a cad nabbing these undervalued items. Maybe it's my overactive guilt gene talking, but I just think that if the pricer had known the true value of the item, it would've cost me more. Doesn't stop me from buying, or make me feel guilty enough to saunter up to the counter and say, "Don't you know what this is WORTH?!?" But I still get a twinge. And since 84 percent of Goodwill's revenues go into job training for the disabled, I'm pleased to hear that they're getting wise and cashing in on the true value of the merch they're peddling. Especially since these upscale Goodwills will augment, not replace, the hodgepodge-tastic thrift stores that I've loved all my life.
What do you thifting fiends think of this new development? Would you shop at a fancified Goodwill, or does it eradicate the thrill of the bargain hunt? Does it make sense for this organization to change its strategies, given the economic climate, or are they giving their loyal customers the short shrift?
Image courtesy New York Times/Hiroko Masuike.
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52 comments:
I wish my local thrift stores could be like that! Still, I don't thrift so much by brand as by what I like, and if it seems to be good quality. If I found something underpriced, I wouldn't feel badly, seeing as it is after all a thrift store, not consignment.
I don't make it to Goodwill very often, sadly. I think it's a great idea. On a college choir trip, I was privileged to stay overnight at the home of a Goodwill exec. Learning about the Goodwill philosophies and this very inspiring man and his wife made me a fan for life. Think about how much richer the job-training experience is when the employees also have the opportunities to learn about merchandising and visual appeal and other great retail practices.
Wow, we don't ewven have mcuh thrift stores here :(
hmm sounds good to me!! why not?
oh, i think this is great! sometimes i like rifling through a bunch of crap, but sometimes i just don't have the patience and i am thankful for the prospect of a "mid-range" thrift experience. and yeah, since their profits go to help people who need it, i think it's a really smart move.
I don't know about goodwill, and I think charity shops here in the UK are slightly different from US thrift stores anyway, but this is definitely something I've noticed over here as well. Prices in charity shops have definitely gone up significantly over the last two years in most shops, and you never get ridiculously undervalued designer stuff any more, but in return for that, shops are much better run, more new stuff comes in and interiors are nicer. Which is a good development overall I think, and anyway, who would begrudge charities making as much money for their causes as they can?
I think the rising prices in goodwill is a problem... i.e. I bought a gap skirt for $6. It would have been <$3 a few years ago. Goodwill's clothing is DONATED, the people working there DONATE their time (here they do) and people who shop in thrift stores (they are not fancified here, and the merch generally sucks, it takes hours to find anything around here) cannot afford items for $10, that is why they are thrifting not buying in wal-mart.
hey the more power to them! our goodwills haven't made that transition yet, that i'm aware of. but the salvation army close to my house is quite nice. they even have awesome sales. they prominently display any designer pieces. i got today's ann taylor blazer there because it was displayed at the salvation army! hahaa. it's still not like a boutique but they did a good job of visually emphasizing the value that could be found within the store.
This is horrible! I will never set foot in one of those kinds of Goodwills! The purpose of a thrift store isn't just to raise money for charity; it's also to make it possible for people who are really financially strapped to look and feel better. I grew up being FORCED to shop in thrift stores because we couldn't afford to shop elsewhere, and the only thing that made me feel better about how poor we were was that I at least looked as presentable as everyone else -- no one had to know how poor we were, because I was able to study up on brands and use my own good eye to find quality clothes for cheap. Thrifting became less about my poverty and more about my taste and talent. But When thrift stores start getting all snooty, charging more for one brand versus another, it makes it ALL about how much money you have once again. Boo, boo, and boo-hiss!
This is exciting news! I do enjoy shopping at Goodwill and other thrift stores like that, but my favorite stores have been one that lean more towards the consignment end, with better organization and a specific area for well-known labels. Maybe this gives me an excuse to make the three hour drive to Palm Beach :)
I also think it's too much, because the charity shop here overpriced things and it almost makes it worth going to consignment stores and other second hand stores. They get the clothes as donations so why should the prices be so high? I know it's for charity but it's not just fashionistas that shop in thrift stores it's people who can't afford normal shops.
I think they should stop thinking about the recessionistas and focus of those who can't afford much.
It sounds like GWill is going toward the direction of Buffalo Exchange (without the exchange part).
I'm partial to digging through big ole piles, but I liked Laura's comment about it becoming a mid-range thrift store. Someplace to go when you want to have an idea of what you'll get.
I'm not a fan of the idea. Just thinking about the sheer volume of clothes these places take in (at least in the States), it seems like the focus should remain on selling cheap and quick.
I don't shop vintage/thrift here (SoCal) because they're wildly overpriced for what you get. If I can buy fast fashion at $5 off the clearance rack brand new, it obviously affects what I'm willing to buy for the same price thrifted. I think this could work, but I would like to see the stores carry multiple ranges. Sometimes I want something cheap and nasty so I can cut it apart for DIY and I'd be willing to search through bins of $1 items for that. Our stores here all focus on $5-10 items and most of them aren't worth that much.
I'm a bit on the fence about this. On one hand, I realize it's a great way for Goodwill and other charities that benefit from thrift-store revenue to generate more to do good with. But on the other hand, I find it disappointing that prices are going up, and thrift shops are separating out the good stuff and slapping price tags on them that are out of reach of some patrons. I grew up thifting (out of necessity), and continue (again, out of necessity). For me, part of the thrill of thrifting is not only the prices, but unearthing that hidden gem that no one knew was there! I wonder how much longer I'll be able to do this... Which makes my thrifter-soul a bit sad. ;)
I never shop thrift stores. I did in college, and got moths in all of my clothes. But I sure donate a lot to Goodwill so I hope I'm doing my part.
Makes sense to me.
I think I'd be more inclined to shop these stores. My frustration with thrifting lies in the bewildering randomness of it all. These "upscale" Goodwills sound like they'd be more fun to browse.
Wow I think this is a great move for Goodwill!
I'm not climbing on the worth bandwagon. I tend to see things as an arrangement of molecules. Or perhaps, fabric. I definitely see sale things as things others rejected and I see thrift items as other people's junk. Even though I regularly shop sales and thrift.
Hi there-I certainly don't blame them for adopting these new attitudes as they most definitely deserve the extra revenue, but like you, I do love snatching that ultra cheap designer bargain!! If it was £5-£10 more and really covetable, I would spend out still!
I'm kind of with one of the other commenters; I think it's a little crappy because in a lot of areas of the country, thrifting isn't some cute trendy thing that people do to snag Dolce and Gabbana for five bucks, it's something that some people HAVE to do and it's one of the only alternatives if you're broke as hell but don't want to shop at Wal-Mart. In the small town we just moved from, Goodwill was one of the only places that ever had wearable stuff - the DAV was very hit or miss, and the Salvation Army was dirt cheap but only ever had truly hideous 80's castoffs. I don't think it's fair to force low-income families to wear ugly clothing just because thrifting is trendy now and they want to make a buck off it. Maybe a palatable alternative would be to have "normal" stores and "mid-range" stores, or to keep normal prices but have a mid range or designer section of the store. I'm not sure, but I don't really like the way it's heading as is.
Lots of interesting and varied perspectives so far!
Just as a reminder, these shops will not REPLACE regular Goodwill outlets and will not be opening everywhere. They're targeting certain markets and testing the model.
I agree with you, Sal. It would augment my thrifting experience and not replace. Pointing out that so much of the profits goes to a good cause helps me from too much of a greedy bastard that just says "mines, mines, mines ... for cheap!"
I hope a gussied-up Good Will opens in Atlanta!
Sal, they will replace regular Goodwills because the better quality, more current items will be diverted to where they can earn more money for the organization's cause. It's their right, of course, but if it succeeds it will make it hard to find nice-to-wear items at the regular stores.
There is a large independent thrift not far from me that started allocating a whole section to vintage. The prices are way too high and vintage seems to mean only "our better quality items." Not selling well, either, because their original base is balking and I don't see they're drawing anyone new. Of course, they're not getting written up in the Times, either. :)
I've never shopped Goodwill, but I do go to 2nd hand stores. I've had friends who are more patient than me to go inside and dig thru everything and come up with great "finds"
Reminds me of a conversation which took place on that TV programme I mentioned on my blog (Mary Queen of Charity Shops). This guy comes into the refurbished charity shop and complains about the heightened prices alienating the poor lower class who rely on charity shops to survive. She asks him what the last thing he bought was; he replied a 'tennis raquet in its sleeve for 70p'.
She got pretty angry, rightly so in my opinion. The poorest people are not buying tennis racquets, and this man could obviously afford to pay £1, £2.50, when all the profits go to charity.
Some of these exects will go out of business because of greed. Drop prices and we will shop.
Thank you for sharing the article, it's utterly fascinating if you ask me. I'm still trying to swallow the idea, that I'm not even sure what to make of it. I'm mostly on the bandwagon, but I may have to say that I agree with the other commenters that the rising prices aren't beneficial. I've seen thrift store prices in Hawaii go up quite a bit in the last two to three years, and in my experiences the people that shop there really can't afford a lot of $10+ items. I can't help but think that even though Goodwill really has an awesome mission statement, the price hike will affect those that really need and utilize it.
Vildy: I see what you mean, but since Goodwill is not planning to roll these stores out in all markets, they can't and won't replace ALL Goodwill outlets. Business may be drawn away from the regular Goodwills in targeted markets, but it hasn't been my impression that Goodwill donations from Madison, WI, will get re-routed to the fancy Milwaukee Goodwill store so that more money can be made off of them. The article says the organization is basically a loose confederation of regional Goodwills, so I don't see this as being the demise of the less expensive thrift stores they've always run.
People in the affected markets will be ... well, affected! But I got the impression that this was an experiment, unlikely to hit smaller cities or rural areas. Could be wrong, though ...
I've rarely had good luck shopping at good will, garage sales, the like... and this has definitely worsened with ebay. I do enjoy the thrill of the chase, and I think seeing as it is for charity we ought to be willing to pay a price that reflects what the item is instead of buying things to resale on ebay or etsy...
I don't see it as any different than having a designer jeans rack in the regular Goodwill, a practice my local Goodwill has been doing for years. They also have a "special section" towards the front where nicer items can be found (yes for higher prices). I have seen this in other locations too, like the Haight. These newer stores just seem to be a bigger version of these special racks.
I do shop Goodwill often, and have gotten some really good buys there, including a Brazillian leather purse by Lazaro for $7.99. On the Lazaro website, their bags sell for upwards of $200 or more. I also got a pair of Tahari shoes for $4.99 that wound up not being as comfortable as I thought they would be, so I wound up trading them at Buffalo Exchange. That being said, my main purpose in shopping at Goodwill is to find clothes for myself at a good price. Our income has dropped drastically in the past couple of years, so when I shop it is either at clearance prices or Goodwill. I appreciate the philosophy and mission of Goodwill, but when I see stained and misshapen clothes priced higher than I would pay for them brand new on clearance, I am not impressed. I am irritated. It doesn't matter if the clothes are a "name" brand or not. I have shopped at my local boutique Goodwill and paid a little more for things that were in excellent condition, but even there some items are a little overpriced in my opinion.
I don't like the concept if only for the fact that since "vintage" became the big thing, many things are waaaaay overpriced. A used garment with issues is just that, a garment. The designer name doesn't erase pills, holes or stains. Many people running the boutique type thrifts have no idea what they are doing and everything winds up overpriced. As a result I have stopped going to many thrift stores in my area and buy online or at places like Buffalo exchange.
It sounds like a good idea, but in practice it's horrible. And they will affect your regular thrift stores....wait for it. This concept happened a few years or so ago where I am (LA) and it has destroyed thrifting.
Goodwill and thrift stores should remain as they were - that is exactly what I expect when I donate to them or shop there.
I rarely thrift anymore.
I hate to correct you, but theses shops WILL affect the pricing and selection at other Goodwills. That is exactly how it has worked out in So Cal where this concept isn't new.
The "good" stuff gets siphoned off to the boutique store and that becomes the focus, leaving the people who have to shop good will with the worst of the castoffs. Some of the "old style"/regular Goodwill/Salvation Army stores also were closed down.
This is not what Goodwill stores were set up for and it has made me switch my donations elsewhere (Out of the Closet gets my donations these days).
Hi, lurker admirer weighing in on this one. It's a great idea for Goodwill, but I'd hate to see all those wonderful under-priced treasures go up in price too much. That's half the thrill of the hunt for me and my friends!
Dang! What bargains. To be honest, I have never shopped in a Thrift Store. Now I think I might go take a peek!
interesting thoughts from everyone...i'm still on the fence. on the one hand, the lazy me always dreamed they'd do this. take the work out. on the other hand, goodwill was the great equalizer of brands. didn't matter if something had a juicy couture tag -- it would get smacked with the same $1 tag as the rest of 'em (and rightfully so when you really think about it...), and if you took the time to find that tank, you earned that deal.
My mom runs a small charity thrift store that deliberately keeps its prices low to help those who truly need it. Providing funds for the charity isn't its sole purpose, and some people recognize that and donate to them because of it. I'm a Goodwill fan, and they're entitled to bring in more money where they can, but I go there for the cheap finds - I'm not always a smart shopper and enjoy trying new things for $3 that I wouldn't buy for $10.
I don't know.. I think it seems kind of opposite to what Goodwill is supposed to be.. I mean, people donate their clothes so that less fortunate people can buy them for very cheap and have nice things, for work, for play, etc.. It's not like Goodwill is buying the items at estate auctions or anything like that. These things are donated and the idea is good will, not exploitation.
I volunteer in a thrift shop (her we call them op-shops) and to a degree we do this as well, ie all the volunteers recognise major labels and price accordingly. This might increase the price from (for example) a $3 top to a $8 top.
I understand the comments from people who say op-shops are there to provide clothes for those who can't afford to buy them anywhere else. The volunteers at my op-shop will always bend over backwards to help out someone who really needs something from our shop, but at the end of the day we volunteer there because we belive in the cause we are raising money for (an animal charity, in this case).
And I don't see anything wrong in adding a few dollars on to a new, branded, trendy item.
I don't like the idea of rasing prices in a store where everything is donated, especially now while so many people are out of work. And, if I find that prices are too high at my local thrift stores, Goodwill, Salvation Army and Council Thrift, I have no problem asking for a discount, especially if I am buying multiple items.
Eh, I don't know... I just think that it robs people who truly have no money of the experience of possibly getting a quality garment at a price they can afford. What'll be left at the Goodwill that actual poor people can buy? Forever 21, Walmart and Target castoffs? Blech, that's terrible. Those are clothes that are awful second hand. If the underpriveleged can no longer get their hands on some quality clothing, it adds insult to injury.
It depends on the charity's mission and POV. If you're there to help people who are in need, you'll keep prices low--and you won't be selective about the merchandise or put much into your shop's ambiance. If your goal is to raise as much money for the charity as possible, you'll cull the best stuff and display it in a much pleasanter environment -- and charge accordingly to cover your higher overhead.
I see many charities going the second route and pricing their lower-income customers out of the market. And if you're a frugal shopper, as opposed to a financially pressed shopper, why not go the consignment route instead, where they merchandise and sell like boutiques and give you a really pleasant shopping experience?
I'd shop there.. as it is, when I shop at Value Village it is pretty much an upscale Goodwill. Prices are higher and the store is nicer.. and I am more likely to find great stuff.
I can understand and appreciate both the benefits and necessity of the change...just as long as they don't replace the thrift stores I know and love.
As far as the bargain-guilt goes, I just don't have it. If I get something ridiculously expensive and chic at a Goodwill for $5, the way I see it, that's an "uncertainty discount." By that, I mean I'm getting a special price for buying clothes that could possibly have been anywhere on anyone. I don't know what's happened in those clothes before they made their way to the donation pile. They could never have been worn. They could have been worn by someone who only showered once a week. Considering how important it is for me that my clothes are completely ick-free, I just can't muster any guilt at all.
I hate the idea. I think of Goodwill employees sifting through the piles, picking out the good stuff and shipping it off to to some boutique in Palm Beach or Chicago, and it makes me mad. Why shouldn't small town Midwesterners have the pleasure of a thrifty find too? Why does everything have to always be about the money?
Hmmm. I'm more than a little miffed at this concept. Goodwill offers none of the services of a boutique or department store; they sell used, donated stuff, that's it. Opening these spiffed-up stores is just a way to milk more cash out of people who are already strapped; you still have to do all the work of sorting through the racks without the help of a salesperson. Just because the stores look prettier doesn't mean they're going to run them like boutiques.
Goodwill tends to be one of the more expensive thrift chains, anyway, but what bothers me is that these boutiques will mean that everything is sorted through and it will be less likely for regular thrift stores to have hidden brand name bargains. I agree with others, that if I'm going to pay the additional price I'd rather go to a consignment shop. I've been to a store like this (although it's been open for a few years, so I don't know if it's part of this same project) and it usually feels pretty empty, that there aren't enough things to choose from so I leave empty handed. The other issue is that $15-$30 is the same range as a TJ Maxx clearance rack, so I'll end up buying new from there, but it's not a "green" option then.
Call me old fashioned, but I like my thrift stores like I like my women... cheap and dirty.
Just kidding!!! I'm actually pretty ambivalent about it. I am a stickler for a great bargain though and I do enjoy the hunt of unearthing hidden treasures above all else, so honestly I'd probably be less likely to frequent such an establishment. That said, I can see why it would be nice to have the option of paying a bit more to have to dig a bit less at times.
Hi, I read through lots of these posts, and most of your entry, but my contact is blurry right now so it is a little hard, but it seemd to me that no one mentioned to you that we do have one of those in minneapolis! I have never been to it, because it annoys me when thrift stores charge too much, and I like to search out the REALLY cheap places and dig for bargains. But if you prefer to have good stuff put in one place for you, then check it out, I forget what it is called, but it is in St louis Park across from Opitz Outlet.
Didn't read thru all the comments so this point may have been reaised; They are also getting wise to the trends and something that may seem hideous to the older ladies (usually) pricing the items now know to charge $15. Prime example was this tribal looking vest that shoulda only been $4, just becoming hip on the runways. It's too bad the prices are going up when there is still so much junk to sift through. But of course still worth it in the end.
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